How does one dress for -30C weather. Very warmly is the answer and thankfully you can purchase all you need in Mongolia. There are people who laugh in the face of trying to look 'down with the locals' by wearing traditional Mongolian clothes as everyday wear. If you decide to go down this route then you'll need a 'del' which is a long warm unisex coat. You can pick them up from the black market for a very reasonable $30, maybe cheaper and they're well made. Choose one with a discreet design and you may be able to wear it without being laughed at when (or if) you return to your own country.

Known as 'Skywalker boots' (named after the Star Wars hero's wardrobe), camel hair boots look like very warm, furry plaster casts. You can buy some decent leather riding boots which are just as warm and slightly more practicle. You can purchase a pair straight off but sometimes the shop owner will tell you to come back in a few weeks as they'll custom make them for you.

If more western styles are you taste then a good pair of walking boots will suffice, although nothing short of crampons will see you avoid one or two slips on the ice that line the roads and pavements in winter. In the cities like UB and Erdenet where you're generally walking on concrete, you can wear shoes - and many expats and Mongolians do - but for warmth and comfort, a good pair of hiking boots will see you through a frostbite-free winter.

If you don't want to don the entire North Face range before venturing out, then thermal underwear is a must. Worn under everyday clothing like jeans and jumpers, a few good sets of thermal undies can allow you to keep warm without sacrificing your favourite pair of Levi's for the winter. This is the option of many Mongolians and expats in the cities - it's not unusual to see a suited man walking about in -25C.

One must though is a winter coat. A good thick woolen coat can be brought from The State Department Store that includes style as well as warmth. Also you can buy yourself a fake North Face jacket for $50. It may fall apart in 6 months but you won't need it in the summer - temperatures can reach up to and beyond 40C.

---